What We Are Doing Out Here
In February of
2001, after much hard word and deliberation, John and I untied our 1974
Ranger 32 sailboat from the San Diego dock and literally sailed off
into the sunset for Mexico. This would be the last time in U.S.
waters for the foreseeable future. Our offshore sports car gone
Winnebago would never be the ideal cruiser, but at least the price was
right. A year prior, John bought a boat with the dream of sailing
around the world; two months later, he met someone with whom to share
it with. The previous owner named her Dancyn after his two
daughters, Dana and Cynthia, and the name stuck. His years of
hard work in the Alaskan fisheries were about to pay off. As romantic
as sunsets might be, our late departure meant anchoring at night amidst
rocks, kelp and unlit fishing boats. Fatigued from months of
preparing for this unknown journey, not to mention our weeklong
departure party, were not the ideal conditions we would have liked
while sailing into the setting sun. We still had lots of work to
do--for one, I didn't even know how to sail--but the hardest part was
over with. We had untied and were free! Free from rush hour and
car payments; free from excessive consumerism and junk mail; free from
the fear of market crashes, gun violence and differing ethnicities;
free from 9-11.
We could still see the outline of San Diego the next
morning from our first Mexican anchorage, only 20 miles away. But
now we could see more closely the brown haze hanging over
Tijuana. Sometime in the night, we had crossed that invisible
line and could not, would not, turn back. From then on we would
slide further south towards the tip of the Baja peninsula and up into
the majestic Sea of Cortez. We would ride the wind manipulating
it to take us where we wanted to go, often times going where it wanted
to take us.
We figured we would spend a season in Baja Mexico
testing our skills as mariners and lovers. Little did we know we
would also learn to be plumbers, electricians, meteorologists, engine
mechanics and inflatable repair specialists. We would learn to
use water for the bare necessities, count amperes like calories, and
aptly learn to deal with officialdom in a country struggling with
corruption, poverty and contradictions. All the while living in
space smaller than our mothers' guest bedrooms, an art form in
itself. We took our time and we're rewarded with the chance to
see a place that had changed little even before John Steinbeck and his
Cannery Row companions traveled through the area in the 1950's.
It looked like the Grand Canyon had been flooded by Caribbean-clear
water. The people were fantastic, the fishing even better.
It has not all been downwind, but here we are 2
years later looking to cross an ocean. As we move further from the U.S.
and the well-traveled anchorages of Mexico and Costa Rica, we cross
paths with people from all over the world. Loads of French,
Germans, Brits, South Africans, Kiwis and Canadians; a rare boat from
Ireland, Japan or Turkey. Singlehanders, couples with kids,
others retired, others barely legal. Different backgrounds, cruising
budgets, and of course, stories. To our disappointment, there are few
people under 40, even fewer under 30. For the price of a brand
new economy-sized car, John bought a boat. Many of our friends
spend more money a year for rent and car payments than has been spent
on Dancyn and getting her ready to cruise. As we are forced to
scrupulously examine our living habits, we are shocked at the money
frivolously spent at bars, restaurants, the mall and Internet
shopping. Money spent on stuff for the American Dream. But
what is this American Dream if we are just a country full of stuff yet
no common sense? We consume the most resources of any country,
produce the most trash, yet we are a country full of violence,
depression, behavioral disorders and credit card debt. Already, some of
our friends are stressed out over jobs, bills to pay, life in
general. And all before they are 30.
Of course, not everyone may want to just buy a
sailboat and disappear into the sunset. But what we could all learn to
do is question more. Question the rising cost of gas coupled with
a boom in SUV sales. Question the amount of packaging and plastic
used for one serving of food-plastic that doesn't go away but ends up
far from shore or on deserted islands. Question what comes
from the television and politicians mouths. Question the way we
live. For us, these experiences aboard Dancyn have been the most
rewarding, the most challenging, the most frustrating! Some days, the
boat is just a hole where you put your money. Boat projects seem
endless and 32 feet of space is too little even for one person.
There are no blocks to walk around when were at each other's throats,
no time outs when the seas turn the boat into a washing machine and
that leaky hatch happens to be over our bed. But we have learned
to make do with what little we have and to live without the things we
don't have. We question ourselves. Are we wasting the years
that should be spent starting careers, savings, and a family? Are
we deranged for trying to cross an ocean in a sailboat? But as we reach
further south to the Panama Canal and further west to the Galapagos
Islands, the sense of accomplishment, pride and excitement is ever
fulfilling. Most of the people out here are retired or close to
it, yet I admire their guts in trying something different after years
of what we call the American Dream grind. Besides, 70-year-old men have
drunk us under the table. No matter the boat or budget, we are
all faced with similar issues, and so the accountants, hippies,
firefighters and soul searchers are all part of the wacky cruising
community working together to ensure we arrive safely to where ever it
is we're going.
Today's world is strife with conflict and
turbulence. Old wounds refuse to heal and new ones surface
quickly. Bearing the stamp of America, we are judged accordingly
and so we often hesitate flying the flag for fear of unwanted
attention. We feel fortunate to be from a country where the water
is clean, free speech is a constitutional right, and hard work equals
hard cash. It has given us the opportunity to be out here in the
first place. But lately we have questioned what exactly those
stars and stripes have come to symbolize, and most importantly, how the
world sees them. Will we be singled out for crime? Within
the insulated boundaries of North America, it is easy to cut oneself
off from the rest of the world. Most of it is a matter of
geography, but as we step outside the line, we are learning that
America has not played clean ball. The benefits we feel at home
often come from another's disadvantage, often for the sole purpose of
getting richer. So far, our encounters with the "outside world"
have been nothing but positive and peaceful. That's not to say
that we haven't been sneered at, ripped off and charged with what we
like to refer to as the gringo tax, but we are learning that the world
is not the dangerous place filled with theft and violence that people
in the U.S. may assume it to be. For the most part, people are
people, and we all eat, breathe, breed, and smile the same. Those
that look like they have so little surprise us with their kindness and
generosity. Many, of course, assume we are the opulent and
wasteful wealthy that they view on their television or see touring
their neighborhoods in closed air-conditioned buses. We show up
on yachts without jobs. They don't realize that we are living at
a standard that is below the American norm. And of course, they
don't have the advantage of a job that allows them to save money.
These prejudices may be amplified towards Americans, but they are also
directed towards most travelers out here that swarm in numbers yet have
the options to leave. It will take all sides to break down the
boundaries of prejudice and aggression, but instead of waiting for the
social progression of the world, we move ahead to set a different
example. We are not alone. Many of us out here recognize
that we are citizens of the same planet moving toward a day when we are
not bound by the flags and countries of origin.
This next stretch of sailing will be the most
challenging to date. We hope to cross the Pacific Ocean in a
32-foot sailboat, an average trip of 30 days. Drinking water will
be our biggest issue. Once there, we will contend with coral heads,
passes through reefs, monstrous currents, and unexpected frontal
systems. We will be rewarded with visiting some of the most
remote cultures in the world and from what the guides tell us, also the
friendliest. It will take everything we have as sailors, humans
and companions.
The adventure continues! And so we dance