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 Tuamotus Toau 
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From Kauehi, we ventured to Toau. Instead of passing through the reef into a lagoon, the anchorage was a natural cul-de-sac in the reef providing excellent protection from all wind angles. No hassles with passes, timing of the tides and currents. An extended family of less than 20 lived on the small motu (one of the many islands surrounding lagoons). Mana and his sister, Rosette, came out to play with us the first day. This is going to be the place we retire to one day.
From Kauehi, we ventured to Toau. Instead of passing through the reef into a lagoon, the anchorage was a natural cul-de-sac in the reef providing excellent protection from all wind angles. No hassles with passes, timing of the tides and currents. An extended family of less than 20 lived on the small motu (one of the many islands surrounding lagoons). Mana and his sister, Rosette, came out to play with us the first day. This is going to be the place we retire to one day.
Last comment 11/18/08.
Viewed: 351 times.
Mana, the oldest of 8. We became fast friends with him and he took us spearfishing several times. Him and the other men in his family are commercial spearfishermen. The area was pristine and without ciguatera.
Mana, the oldest of 8. We became fast friends with him and he took us spearfishing several times. Him and the other men in his family are commercial spearfishermen. The area was pristine and without ciguatera.
Last comment 11/18/08.
Viewed: 253 times.
Rosette, age 6, Mana's youngest sister (yet the biggest!). Her mom says she's so big because her aunt overfeeds her when she goes off to school on the neighboring island. Most kids out here leave home to go to school much earlier than in Marquesas because there are such few towns. A motu in the distance.
Rosette, age 6, Mana's youngest sister (yet the biggest!). Her mom says she's so big because her aunt overfeeds her when she goes off to school on the neighboring island. Most kids out here leave home to go to school much earlier than in Marquesas because there are such few towns. A motu in the distance.
Last comment 11/18/08.
Viewed: 263 times.
Speared red grouper. The reefs are in great shape. The folks here harvest well but take good care of their resources, even installing mooring balls to prevent visiting boats from anchoring on the coral. To the right is the exit to open ocean, to the left is the reef. Even though there is little land to protect the anchorage, the reef dampens the winds blowing over the lagoon.
Speared red grouper. The reefs are in great shape. The folks here harvest well but take good care of their resources, even installing mooring balls to prevent visiting boats from anchoring on the coral. To the right is the exit to open ocean, to the left is the reef. Even though there is little land to protect the anchorage, the reef dampens the winds blowing over the lagoon.
Last comment 11/18/08.
Viewed: 303 times.
Mana's skiff going to his parent's house. About half of his siblings live in Tahiti or Moorea.
Mana's skiff going to his parent's house. About half of his siblings live in Tahiti or Moorea.
Last comment 11/18/08.
Viewed: 280 times.
Dancyn and Estrela. We got invited to dinner by Mana's mom along with the Whatever, the only boats here. His mom, Rose, has a small business feeding the charter boats that occassionally some in here, but our dinner was for trade only.
Dancyn and Estrela. We got invited to dinner by Mana's mom along with the Whatever, the only boats here. His mom, Rose, has a small business feeding the charter boats that occassionally some in here, but our dinner was for trade only.
Last comment 11/18/08.
Viewed: 256 times.
Dining room/rec room/bedroom. The family moves the table at night and sleeps on raised mattresses.
Dining room/rec room/bedroom. The family moves the table at night and sleeps on raised mattresses.
Last comment 11/18/08.
Viewed: 267 times.
Abigail and Rosette who are shockingly the same age. We fell in love with the people here who were like tropical rednecks who like to kick back and let the hogs, dogs, chickens, and children run wild.
Abigail and Rosette who are shockingly the same age. We fell in love with the people here who were like tropical rednecks who like to kick back and let the hogs, dogs, chickens, and children run wild.
Last comment 11/18/08.
Viewed: 289 times.

Last comment 11/18/08.
Viewed: 283 times.
One of the many forms of entertainment during the dinner party. Teipiri, Mana's dad, caught a reef shark with the help of Tequila, the dog. They didn't eat the shark, but let the dog torture it to death.
One of the many forms of entertainment during the dinner party. Teipiri, Mana's dad, caught a reef shark with the help of Tequila, the dog. They didn't eat the shark, but let the dog torture it to death.
Last comment 11/18/08.
Viewed: 267 times.

Last comment 11/18/08.
Viewed: 236 times.
Chew toy
Chew toy
Last comment 11/18/08.
Viewed: 312 times.
Toau snack cool, Rose's restaurant. These people had one of the best lives we have yet to encounter. They step off their porches to fish for a living and run a quasi restaurant that charges $25/person. Sometimes vacationing charter boats with 10 people plus stop here.
Toau snack cool, Rose's restaurant. These people had one of the best lives we have yet to encounter. They step off their porches to fish for a living and run a quasi restaurant that charges $25/person. Sometimes vacationing charter boats with 10 people plus stop here.
Last comment 11/18/08.
Viewed: 275 times.
We ate several kinds of fish, mostly smoked with coconut husks in a 55-gallon drum, octopus--fantastic!, lobster, clams, and sea snails. Inexchange, everyone brought a little something different: DVD's (highly sought after), chalking to repair a boat, flour, and wine (cruisers use discretion when trading alcohol since the locals often bindge drink).
We ate several kinds of fish, mostly smoked with coconut husks in a 55-gallon drum, octopus--fantastic!, lobster, clams, and sea snails. Inexchange, everyone brought a little something different: DVD's (highly sought after), chalking to repair a boat, flour, and wine (cruisers use discretion when trading alcohol since the locals often bindge drink).
Last comment 11/18/08.
Viewed: 266 times.
Allison and Eliza
Allison and Eliza
Last comment 11/18/08.
Viewed: 258 times.
After dinner, we broke out the guitars and ukelele and sang and dance. Rose, 39, mother of 8. She's from Moorea, a popular island near Tahiti, but prefers living out in the sticks.
After dinner, we broke out the guitars and ukelele and sang and dance. Rose, 39, mother of 8. She's from Moorea, a popular island near Tahiti, but prefers living out in the sticks.
Last comment 11/18/08.
Viewed: 254 times.
Teipiri, Rose and HT. Teipiri is from this island and still lives here with his mother and 2 sisters.
Teipiri, Rose and HT. Teipiri is from this island and still lives here with his mother and 2 sisters.
Last comment 11/18/08.
Viewed: 254 times.
Scott and JR. These two were inseperable. They talked each other's ear off, a relationship that started when we crossed the Pacific. Every night, they met on the radio--the Scott and John show. Apparently they had quite a following, and discussed everything from constipation, fishing, to alien conspiracy theories.
Scott and JR. These two were inseperable. They talked each other's ear off, a relationship that started when we crossed the Pacific. Every night, they met on the radio--the Scott and John show. Apparently they had quite a following, and discussed everything from constipation, fishing, to alien conspiracy theories.
Last comment 11/18/08.
Viewed: 259 times.
Rosette's two sisters, Rosina, 9, and Violette, 15.
Rosette's two sisters, Rosina, 9, and Violette, 15.
Last comment 11/18/08.
Viewed: 275 times.
Doug had scanned pictures of Teipiri from his journey here 15 years ago. Techno trip.
Doug had scanned pictures of Teipiri from his journey here 15 years ago. Techno trip.
Last comment 11/18/08.
Viewed: 245 times.
Violette taught us the hula after dinner. That little girl could shake her tail something else.
Violette taught us the hula after dinner. That little girl could shake her tail something else.
Last comment 11/18/08.
Viewed: 279 times.
Black-tip reef shark. We saw lots of these sharks while spearfishing, which of course made us think twice about the sport. They were like bothersome dogs and poised little problems.
Black-tip reef shark. We saw lots of these sharks while spearfishing, which of course made us think twice about the sport. They were like bothersome dogs and poised little problems.
Last comment 11/18/08.
Viewed: 240 times.
John went spearfishing with Mana and Teipiri and was shocked at the amount of sharks coming in for scraps. Props to JR (he suffers from shark phobia which is why HT always has to get in the water first!)
John went spearfishing with Mana and Teipiri and was shocked at the amount of sharks coming in for scraps. Props to JR (he suffers from shark phobia which is why HT always has to get in the water first!)
Last comment 11/18/08.
Viewed: 303 times.
JR with Violette.
JR with Violette.
Last comment 11/18/08.
Viewed: 287 times.